Any expert will tell, that Honda corps repair is a difficult, highly technological problem which demands a profound knowledge and presence of the modern equipment. The corps of any Japanese car represents the high-precision metal design which details are adjusted and sewed industrially. Honda corps repair and its subsequent painting is some layers of the expensive paint and varnish covering which ideal restoration is possible only in the presence of the specialised equipment and firm materials. Among other things, qualitative Honda corps repair provides necessary passive safety of the driver and the passenger. Honda corps repair is made for the car according to the aerodynamic characteristics of separate model, and account materials steal up under the checklist.
Optimum repair of a Honda corps assumes work not only with external characteristics of the car, but also with technological features. Allocate capital and cosmetic corps repair Honda. On restoration of appearance of a corps of the car it is possible to carry To cosmetic works: repair of a bumper Honda, removal of easy indents and scratches, local improvements. If there is a necessity, spend nopainting Honda corps repair.
Honda corps repair frequently assumes drawing of an additional paint coat over the old. Painting and Honda corps repair is always made according to checklist data, otherwise, it is possible to pick up the account material mismatching characteristics of the car. Make painting of a corps Honda on technologies which allows to use a minimum of a paint and varnish covering. Major repairs of Honda corps engage full replacement of separate details by means of the advanced equipment. I have an experience of Honda corps repair which assumes practically 100 % replacement of external elements.
Depending on colour of the car Honda, кузовной repair can locally be spent, that is, without deformation of a factory paint and varnish covering on all area of a detail. It is necessary to understand, that, for example, local corps repair of Honda Civic will be limited, in comparison with easy off-road car CR-V. The matter is that corps repair of Honda Civic becomes complicated compactness of the car which has a minimum of the latent places, and local repair is recommended to be spent only in imperceptible places. In the rest, repair of Honda Civic corps does not differ from works which are given for other cars of the Japanese manufacture.
Corps repair of Honda Accord, in turn, has a number of prominent features. Considering dearness and geometrical complexity of the car, repair of corps elements Accord it is necessary to make with use of the most expensive account materials and the newest equipment.
As a whole, irrespective of, whether it be or others corps works, them it is possible to execute repair of bumper Honda Accord, repair of bumper Honda Civic and in house conditions.

The first letter in the name of Honda engines specifies in an engine accessory to a certain series. Also as well as at other Japanese engines, at HONDA engines of one series are structurally similar, but can differ on speeding up degree, a working volume and other characteristics.
Examples: F20B, F18B, D17A, J35A.

Following two letter show an engine working volume, having divided the number consisting of these figures, on 10 we will receive a working volume in litres.
Examples: D17A (volume of the engine of 1,7 l.), D15B (volume of the engine of 1,5 l.), E07Z (engine volume - 0,66 l.).

Last letter (there are letters A, B, With, Z) designates engine version in series, engines with the letter And are the first versions, then there are engines with In, last version becomes C, letter Z is applied only to engine E07Z.
Examples: L13A, F22B, B18C.

Old engines HONDA have the name from two letters from which to learn any information it is impossible. An example: ZC (it was established on model Integra up to 2001, was both in carburettor, and in an injector variants).

Reliable motors are done by Honda, only puts them not as everything, belts to the right, and on the contrary. Accordingly they also turn in the opposite direction - counter-clockwise. Insignificant, at first sight, distinction sets thinking, when it is necessary to turn off a pulley bolt of kneeshaft. To do it it is necessary at least each 100 thousand in km - for replacement of belt GRM, but there are also off-schedule works: epiploon replacement, for example. The bolt huge for a head on 17 moment 185 Н-м is tightened and to turn off it, the effort is required much more.
To shift a bolt, scrolling the engine a starter, it will not turn out: a rotation direction not that.
The engaged drive and the pedal of a brake pressed in a floor too do not help - transmission springs, but the bolt does not surrender. On old cars in a clutch crankcase there is a window opposite to a flywheel wreath, and some try to stop its mount or sharply sharpened breakage. Such duel of the person with car at times comes to an end with the spilt blood or an unwrapped crankcase, and happens, both that, and another. In a pulley it is provided hexahedron cut under a firm key. Only here hexahedron on 51 with a bore under a head on 17 on sale not to find, and to order for single works - expensively. Meanwhile preparation for a special key is on sale in any market: a lock nut
Radiators on 54, an inner diameter (on a thread) - 39 mm, width - 10 mm. We recut its sides on 1,5 mm, we weld the strong flat handle in length of 180-220 mm - the tool is ready. On some pulleys corners between cut sides are rounded, therefore and on a nut it is possible to cut reciprocal parts a few. We turn on a bolt a head on 17 with the extension piece and the powerful handle.
It is possible to weld the ground preparation on a VAZ key for a bent shaft nut - the universal wrench VAZ-Honda will turn out. The handle is convenient for establishing on a drive axis of a front wheel.
That the key has not come off, we establish the extension piece on a reliable support. At times even a wheel to remove not necessarily, however if tyres of more diameter, than regular are established, a wheel it is necessary to remove or use nevertheless a key with propshaft.

1. Open a cowl how much it probably.
2. Unhook at first a negative side of the accumulator battery, then positive.
3. Remove a mantle of racks (engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5, В16А6).
4. Unhook cables for connection from the block of safety locks and the relay.
5. Remove the accumulator battery and a bracket of fastening of the accumulator battery.
6. Remove an inlet air vent and the air filter case.
Engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1. Remove the resonator and an inlet air vent.
2. Unhook a socket of a temperature detector of air on an admission, then remove the air filter case.
Except engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1. Unhook a socket of a temperature detector of air on an admission, then remove an inlet air vent and the air filter case.
1 - the air filter case; 2 - an inlet air vent; 3 socket of a temperature detector of air on an admission.
7. Unhook a socket of a wiring harness of the engine.
1 - a socket of a wiring harness of the engine
8. Dump pressure of fuel, to slacken a technological bolt on a fuel filter approximately one turn.
Do not smoke at work on a fuel system. Hold an open flame far from work area. Merge fuel in suitable capacity.
9. Remove a hose of system of removal of steams of fuel from the inlet pipe duct and a fuel hose.
Engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a hose of system of removal of steams of fuel from the inlet pipe duct; 2 - a bolt;
3 - a technological bolt; 4 - hollow disks; 5 - a hollow disk; 6 - a fuel hose.
Except engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, DD15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a technological bolt; 2 - a bolt; 3-hollow disks; 4 - a hollow disk; 5 - a fuel hose;
6-hose of system of removal of steams of fuel from the inlet pipe duct.
10. Remove a vacuum hose of the vacuum servo of brakes, a hose of return of fuel and a vacuum hose.
Engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a vacuum hose; 2 - a vacuum hose of the vacuum servo of brakes; 3 - a hose of return of fuel.
Except engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a vacuum hose; 2 - a hose of return of fuel; a 3-vacuum hose of the vacuum servo of brakes.
11. Unhook sockets ESM/RSM.
12. Unhook the basic socket of a wiring harness.
13. Remove isolating boot and wiring harness clamps, then remove sockets ESM/RSM.
1 - an isolating boot.
14. Remove a belt of a drive gear of the pump of the hydraulic booster of a steering and the pump.
ATTENTION: do not unhook hoses from the hydraulic booster pump.
Engines V16A2. В16А4, В16А5. В16А6:
1. Remove an adjusting bolt and fastening bolts, then remove a belt of a drive gear of the pump of the hydraulic booster and the pump. Engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5, В16А6:
1 - an adjusting bolt; 2 - fastening bolts.
Except engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5, В16А6:
1. Remove a bolt of fastening and fixing bolt, then remove a belt of a drive gear of the pump of the hydraulic booster and the pump.
Except engines V16A2. В16А4. В16А5, В16А6:
1 - a fastening bolt;
2 - a belt of a drive gear of the pump of the hydraulic booster;
3 - a fixing bolt.
15. Remove a belt of a drive gear of the compressor of the air conditioner. Engines V16A2. В16А4. В16А5. В16А6:
1. To slacken a bolt of a bracket of a roller and an adjusting bolt, then remove a belt at water of the compressor of the air conditioner. Engines V16A2. В16А4. В16А5, В16А6:
1 - an adjusting bolt;
2 - a bolt of a bracket of a roller;
3 - a belt of a drive gear of the compressor of the air conditioner.
Except engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5, В16А6:
1. To slacken the central nut of a roller and an adjusting bolt, then remove a belt of a drive gear of the compressor of the air conditioner. Except engines V16A2. В16А4. В16А5, В16А6:
1 - an adjusting bolt;
2 - the central nut of a roller;
3 - a belt of a drive gear of the compressor of the air conditioner.
16. Remove a cable of a drive gear of a throttle valve, to slacken a lock nut, then take the end of a cable from sector.
ATTENTION: Do not bend a cable at removal of it. Always replace the damaged cable new. Adjust a cable of a drive gear of a throttle valve at assembly. Engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a lock nut;
2 - an adjusting nut;
3 - a cable of a drive gear of a throttle valve.
Except engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a cable of a drive gear of a throttle valve;
2 - a lock nut;
3 - an adjusting nut.
17. Remove a clutch working cylinder in gathering with a tube and a hose (a mechanical check point).
ATTENTION: Do not unhook a tube. Do not press a clutch pedal, at a remote working cylinder. Do not bend a tube.
1 - a working cylinder
18. Remove an earth wire of a gear box and a hose loose strap.
1 - a hose loose strap; 2 - a gear box earth wire.
19. Remove a steering cable (CVT/HONDA MULTI MATIC).
1 - a splint; 2 - a hollow disk; 3 - a lock nut; 4 - a plastic hollow disk; 5-cable of steering.
20. Unhook a socket of the gauge of change of effort on a steering wheel depending on speed of movement, and remove a wiring harness clamp.
1 - a socket of the gauge of change of effort on a steering wheel depending on speed of movement.
21. Remove a radiator cover. At removal of a cover of a radiator wait before drop of temperature of a cooling fluid to avoid a burn.
22. To hoist the hoist on full height.
23. Remove front wheels and crankcase protection.
1 - crankcase protection.
24. Merge a cooling fluid.
25. Merge a transmission oil or a liquid. Repeatedly establish a drain plug, using a new hollow disk.
26. Merge engine oil. Repeatedly establish a drain bolt, using a new hollow disk.
27. Remove a shift rod and a longitudinal rod (a mechanical check point).
1 - a shift rod; 2 - a clamper; 3 - a rod; 4 - a spring pin of 8 mm.
28. Remove a steering cable (Models from an automatic check point).
ATTENTION: Do not bend a cable. Always replace the damaged cable new. Adjust a cable at assembly.
1 - a steering cable; 2 - a cover of a cable of steering; 3-lock washer.
29. Remove the air conditioner compressor.
ATTENTION: do not unhook hoses of the compressor of the air conditioner.
1 - the air conditioner Compressor
30. (Engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5) Unhook a socket of the warmed up oxygen gauge.
31. Remove an exhaust pipe And.
Except engine D15Z5, D15Z6, D15Y5 (models КЕ, KG), D16Y7
1 - a socket of the warmed up oxygen gauge;
2-layer pads; 3 - a layer pad; 4 - a nut;
5 exhaust pipe And; 6 - a nut.
32. Remove the right plug of the absorber.
33. Unhook spherical hinges of a lower arm of a suspender.
34. Remove power shafts.
35. Lower the hoist.
36. Remove the top and bottom radiator hoses, and also a heater hose.
1 - the top radiator hose; 2 - a heater hose;
3-hose of a heater; 4 - the bottom radiator hose.
37. Remove hoses of a cooler of a working liquid of an automatic gear box, then blank off hoses a tube (models from an automatic check point. CVT/HONDA MULTI MATIC).
1 - hoses of a cooler of a working liquid of an automatic gear box
38. Connect winch fastening to hooks of lifting of the engine.
Engines D15Z5, D15Z6, D16Y5 (models КЕ, KG), D16Y7:
1 - layer pads; 2 - a nut;
3 - an exhaust pipe And; 4 - a nut.
39. Remove the left and right front bearing parts of fastening.
1-left front bearing part; 2 - a nut.
1 - the right front bearing part; 2 - a bolt.
40. Remove a rear bearing part.
1 - a bolt; 2 - a rear bearing part; 3 - bolts.
41. Remove the top bracket.
1 - the top bracket.
42. Remove a bracket of fastening of a gear box, then remove a gear box bearing part.
1 - a gear box bearing part; 2 - a bracket of fastening of a gear box.
43. Check up, that before removal of the engine you have unhooked all hoses and sockets which can prevent removal.
44. Slowly hoist the engine approximately 150 mm. Check up once again. That all hoses and wires have been unhooked from the engine/gear box.
45. Completely hoist the engine, and remove it from the car.

Front brakes on the majority of cars of mark Honda (and not only) have a design with one brake cylinder in a caliper. At such design that by means of one cylinder to press two pads to a brake plate, pads should is in a metal buckle. I.e. the brake cylinder presses the bucket on one of pads, and a rear on a buckle which being displaced presses the second pad to a disk. It is clear, that this buckle should not be fixed rigidly, and should have possibility of free conveyance. (So-called " The floating buckle ") For this purpose, a buckle fastens to a swivel member through directing on which it should move. Guiding are greased by special lubricant and are protected duster from moisture and dirt hit. From time, deterioration and wrong repair leakproofness duster can be broken, the dirt and water gets to the directing, and they start"to sour". Even when this process only begins, work of brakes is already broken, and if he has had time to come far enough to restore working capacity of this knot sometimes happens absolutely uneasy. From the point of view of the driver, this failure can be shown differently. Brakes start to work at more pressing a pedal, there can be extraneous sounds, pads will non-uniformly wear out. And non-uniformity can be different character - deterioration of one pad much more, than another at"souring"of both directing, and deterioration of pads under a corner, at "souring"of one of them.
After you turn off two bolts of fastening directing, you can remove a buckle with a brake cylinder, covering brake blocks. Each guiding represents the barrel in which the bolt is twisted and on which ends are put on dusters. This barrel should move freely (fingers) along the shaft concerning a buckle. If it does not occur, it is necessary for backing out improvised means, not having damaged. Do not try to remove duster, not having taken out a guide bush - it has a special design, being simultaneously and an epiploon and to remove it not having taken out a guide bush it is impossible. Besides, dusters it is made of rubber which is not oilprotection, therefore it cannot be washed out gasoline or other solvents. Because of it to grease this knot it is possible ONLY lubricant specially intended for it. That this knot has started to work normally and has got though any reliability, it is desirable to replace dustera. It is not so expensive. After clearing of details, lubricant and assemblies guiding should move freely hands, and the buckle with directing can be established into place.
Wrong replacement of brake blocks can be a partial cause of defect of this knot. At correct replacement of brake blocks, it is necessary to remove this buckle, at the same time checking the directing. It allows to define in time necessity of their dismantling and lubricant. Some, at replacement of pads remove a caliper entirely, leaving guiding to "sour" further. And it is unequivocal, absolutely imperceptible damage dusters pads directing at replacement can be the "souring" reason even.
It is necessary to apply to lubricant only special high-temperature (not less than 200 C) lubricant since brakes strongly heat up, it usually happens in the repair complete set of calipers or is on sale separately.